Puerto Natales, churros by the fire, and 400 hikers asking where to poop—let’s go!

Patagonia has had a spicy little corner in my heart since I was born. But I only made it down to Torres del Paine about 11 years ago, when my friend Valentina and I decided to try our luck at our very first multi-day, remote hiking adventure.
We had no clue what we were doing. For 11 days, we figured it out with sore shoulders, puffy ramen, and awe in our eyes. We fell in love.

So when I got the email from Mats and Johanna inviting me to volunteer at the first ever Fjällräven Classic in Patagonia, I legit squealed. It felt like life was giving me a full-circle moment—this time not as the hiker, but as someone enabling the adventure for others.

🛬 Getting There and Where to Stay

You can either:
✈️ Fly to Punta Arenas, then bus to Puerto Natales (~3 hours), or
✈️ Fly directly to Natales from Santiago or Puerto Montt (only during the summer season).

Puerto Natales has something for everyone:

Cozy hostels
Campsites
Cute Airbnbs
A few fancy hotels with views that’ll steal your breath
I stayed at La Dorotea, a peaceful spot not far from the plaza. And yes, I had pizza twice at La Mesita Grande. Regrets = zero.

🚩 Setting the Scene: Welcome to the First Classic

The event ran from December 2–6, 2024. The route?
From Dos Lagunas through Estancia Cerro Guido and Patagonia Camp, finishing at Río Serrano. Private trails, local landscapes, and the kind of Patagonia you don’t always see on postcards. Magic.

Our volunteer adventure started a few days before, unpacking freeze-dried meals, setting up the hiker expo, and nerding out on logistics with the Fjällräven and local teams.

Then came Start Line duty—where the magic began.

⛺ Tents, Mate, and Churros at the Fire

My crew and I set up the Start Line camp: pitching tents, checking gear, chatting about water filtration systems, tent weights, foot care, and laughing with hikers from all over the world. We shared mate, stories, and yes—tips on how to poo in the bush with low impact.
It’s not glamorous, but it’s essential!

I met absolute beginners and seasoned hikers who’ve done classics all over the world. Everyone had a different reason for being there. It was beautiful to witness.

🌦️ Patagonia Weather, Baby

Let me tell you—Patagonia doesn’t mess around.
We had sunshine, wind, and near 0ºC nights. I packed for it all: layers, gloves, windproof everything, just in case hail decided to make a cameo.
Pro tip: pack like you’ll experience all four seasons in one day. Because you probably will.

🎉 Finish Line Feels

After saying farewell to our hikers at the start, we moved to set up the Finish Line at Los Maitenes, Río Serrano. Watching hikers arrive—dusty, smiling, sometimes teary—was surprisingly emotional.
We saw their before-and-after transformations. We shared hugs, snacks, and little victories.

And yes, I had itchy feet watching them all roll in.

But this wasn’t my hike.
This was about enabling others to have the kind of experience I’ve had many times.
Though I did sneak in some cheeky hikes and trail runs in between shifts (obviously 😇).

🥾 Post-Classic Microadventure: Torres del Paine, I’m Back!

But Karin! Where did YOU hike?!
Ok, ok—I’m getting there!

After the event, I took a few days of remote work from Natales (digital nomad life!), and then… packed my Granite Gear Crown 60L and hit the road for a weekend micro-adventure. Back when I did Torres del Paine for the first time, I didn’t have the gear I have today. Me and my friend Valentina had to carry 22kgs each, as our gear was cheap as but also the food options back then where much more limited. Only our food was 14-16kgs! So, these days I can enjoy a much lighter pack with tastier snacks. I have done a lot of research on my gear, and while there might be even lighter options out there, I took consideration on the key pieces I currently own. They were not given to me by any brands and I purchased them with my own money. Some on SALE, and others on full price. I advise you to take your time, rent, borrow, and invest in the best option for you with care. The idea is to ensure your gear goes with you for a long time, so I usually avoid low quality if possible.

🎯 Destination: Torres del Paine National Park - Mirador Las Torres
🎨 Manifestation moment: I painted the Torres six months earlier while in Bali. So yes, this was meant to be.

🧳 What I Packed

🏕️ Shelter & Sleep System

Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL2 2P Tent – Ultralight freestanding 2-person tent. (Weight: 1,420g)
Big Agnes Copper Spur Footprint – Groundsheet for added tent protection. (Weight: 170g)
Therm-a-Rest Questar 0°F Sleeping Bag – Down mummy bag rated to -18°C. (Weight: 1,300g)
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XTherm NXT Pad – Inflatable pad with R-value 7.3 for cold conditions. (Weight: 439g)
Nemo Fillo Elite Pillow – Inflatable with Primaloft insulation and baffled air cells. (Weight: 80g)
Sea to Summit Silk Mummy Liner – Lightweight liner for warmth and hygiene. (Weight: 125g)

Subtotal: ~3.53 kg

🍳 Kitchen & Toiletries

Jetboil Flash Cooking System – Integrated stove + pot with fast boil time. (Weight: 371g)
Light My Fire Spork – Ultralight spoon-fork-knife combo. (Weight: 10g)
Sea to Summit Wash Sheets (x3) – Shampoo, laundry & body wash sheets. (Weight: 60g total)
Enamel Cup – Monitos Vole – Classic metal mug from a Chilean illustrator. (Weight: 150g)
Katadyn BeFree Filter Flask (1L) – Water filter with soft flask. (Weight: 63g)
Sawyer Squeeze Filter + 2x Pouches – Backup water filter with two 32oz pouches. (Weight: 197g)
PACT Outdoors Shovel (Aluminum) – Ultralight trowel for backcountry toilet needs. (Weight: 85g)
Kula Cloth – Antimicrobial reusable pee cloth. (Weight: 20g)

Subtotal: ~0.96 kg

🧤 Clothing System

Arc’teryx Beta GTX Jacket – Durable hardshell jacket for wind and rain. (Weight: 425g)
Outdoor Research Helium Pants – Ultralight waterproof pants. (Weight: 160g)
Brubeck Merino Thermals (Top & Leggings) – Base layers for warmth and breathability. (Weight: 200g)
Outdoor Research GTX Alpinite Gloves – Waterproof insulated gloves. (Weight: 170g)
Patagonia Capilene Liners - With waterproof mittens that pack up in a tiny pocket. (No idea, nut super light)
BOCO Gear Beanie – Lightweight thermal beanie. (Weight: 40g)
Buffs (x2) – Multi-use neck/headwear. (Weight: 80g total)
Injinji Ultra Toe Socks (x2 pairs) – Blister-preventing socks. (Weight: 90g total)
Tops (x2) – Merino or synthetic shirts for layering. (Weight: 250g total)
Mammut Courmayeur SO Pants – Softshell alpine pants. (Weight: 400g)
Topo Designs River Shorts – Lightweight, quick-dry shorts. (Weight: 170g)

Subtotal: ~2.00 kg

🎒 Miscellaneous

Garmin inReach Mini PLB – Satellite communicator + SOS device. (Weight: 100g)
Petzl Headlamps (x2) – One primary, one backup. (Weight: 160g total)
Waterproof Backpack Cover (Andesgear) – Rain protection for backpack. (Weight: 120g)
Black Diamond Z-Poles – Aluminum trekking poles. (Weight: 500g pair)
Sea to Summit Dry Bags (5L x2) – Waterproof bags for clothes/gear. (Weight: 120g total)

Subtotal: ~1.00 kg

📦 Total Base Weight: ~7.50 kg

🍫 Snacks I Took

This is what I ate for my 3 days in Torres del Paine:

Blueberry and Vanilla Muesli Freeze dried breakfast by REAL Turmat

Asian Curry or similar vegetarian flavours of Freeze dried lunch and dinner by REAL Turmat

You can replace that brand with others that might be available to you. I personally prefer carrying camping meals because I can ensure a sufficient amount of nutrients and general macros + calories while on the field. You can replace them with cheaper options like couscous and similar, but these will take more time for you to find a good mix that delivers in flavour, nutrition and weight. After years of hiking, I have preferred to go this way, but I used to do the instant couscous and beef jerky when I started.

So, for the 3 days I carried the following:

2 breakfasts

4 lunches/dinners

3 coffee sachets from Patagonia Blend

4 nut bars (granola bars, snickers or similar)

3 fruit purees (baby food)

1 beer to celebrate my mini trip

1 bag of mushroom chips

The key is to find the snacks that work for you, and add a few things that you like while out on the trails as a motivation/reward. Mushroom chips have been a big winner for me, as you can add a more salty snack while keeping the weight light.

🚍 How to Get There

From Puerto Natales, I took the regular bus to the main Portería Laguna Amarga of Torres del Paine. From there, a connecting shuttle takes you to Central, where I camped for 2 nights.
Make sure to book ahead for both accommodation and transport—especially in high season! There are several companies and times to travel. You can either book online or get your ticket at the Bus Station.

It costed me about $40.000 CLP return for the trip to Central from Puerto Natales with Bus-Sur. I purchased the bus ticket on recorrido.cl, where I was able to select the dates, times, and more. The whole experience through the site was easy and smooth. Additionally, I decided to take the 11:00am bus so I could enjoy the rest of the first day in the camp and get all ready for the next day’s hike. The trip from Puerto Natales to Portería LAmarga is around 2 hours. Then it’s about 30-45 mins from there to Central in the shuttle. From the carpark, you will need to hike for 10-15 mins to the Central campsite.

Once you get to the Portería, you will need to make sure you have paid your Park Pass. Make sure you do this before you travel, as the park has daily quotas of visitors. For Chileans, the park pass is $9.000 CLP for up to 3 days of stay. There are different prices depending on how long are you visiting the park and if you are a National or a Foreign Tourist.

The main reason for camping at Central was due to the practical decision of not having to haul all my gear up the mountain to stay at Chileno. I did this the first time I visited, about 11 years ago, and I promised myself to never do it again lol.

Central offers a diverse range of options when it comes to accommodation. You can stay at the Lodge, rent a comfy and cool looking tent, or BYO gear (like me!) and rent a clear space. I paid $58.000 CLP for two nights. Central has amazing amenities, like hot showers, camp kitchen, and some sheltered areas to cook and hang out in case of rain. There is also the small store at the parking area where you can buy coffee and other snacks (at an extra price!).

For all reservations and more information on the park, you can visit this site.

For purchasing your Park Pass, access this site.

🌄 Sunrise Hike to Mirador Torres

Woke up at 4:30am and hit the trail. Why so early?

Morning light on the Massif? Chef’s kiss
Sunrise bird calls = magic
Trail mostly to myself = bliss
Wanted to avoid the late-morning “Instagram express” crowd
...and I did.

📍 From Central to Chileno: ~5.5km
📍 From Chileno to Mirador Torres: ~5km
Total = 10.5km one way (21km return approx)

Depending on fitness, it could take between 6-8hrs to hike both ways. Take into account snacks breaks. And make sure you take out all your rubbish with you.

Had a peaceful brekkie at Campamento Chileno, then powered up to the Mirador.
Was it beautiful? YES.
Was it worth the early wake-up? YES.
Did Yoko come too? OF COURSE. 🐵

🏞️ Descent and Reflections

The way back was the same trail—technical in parts (hello, rocks), but manageable.
Back at Chileno for an early lunch, and at Central by 2pm.
Pro tip: Don’t carry your whole house on your back. I made that mistake in 2015 when I hauled a 22kg pack up the same trail. This time? Daypack life all the way.

The trail isn’t overly technical, but it helps to have a decent base fitness to truly enjoy it.

🚌 Back to Town

After the hike, I hopped back on the same bus from Central → Portería → Natales bus terminal, grabbed an Uber to pick up my bags, and headed to the airport.
(Punta Arenas is about 3 hrs away; Natales airport is 15–20 mins from town)

🌶️ See You Again, Patagonia

This trip was just the appetiser. I’m not done with Patagonia—far from it.
But this little combo of volunteering, connecting, and hiking solo again reminded me why I do all this. Why I love all this. As a woman, Patagonia it’s a super safe destination to solo hike. The trails are well marked, with a lot of transit, and many amenities, making it a comfy circuit to enjoy and meet new people. I met many people during those 3 days, chatting about traveling, the hikes we have enjoyed, and sharing about our experience in Patagonia.

So whether you're dreaming about Patagonia or prepping for your next adventure—
I hope this post gives you a little push to go. You don’t need to summit every peak or hike every kilometre. Just say yes, and let the trail do the rest.

Con cariño (and lots of layers),
Karin