11 hours and 50 minutes. That’s how long it took me to run, hike, scramble, and willpower my way through 36km of volcanic grit, ash, roots, and switchbacks at the Rinjani100 Ultra in Lombok, Indonesia.

This wasn’t just any trail race. It started in the sleepy village of Sembalun in the dead of night, and climbed relentlessly up to the crater rim of Mount Rinjani, then on to the summit by sunrise. Yes, the summit. At 3,726 metres.

The Climb Begins

Headlamps flickered like stars scattered across the dark trailhead as we left Sembalun behind. It was pitch black and brisk, the kind of cold that makes you question your life choices until your body warms up. With over 3,100m of elevation gain packed into 36km, this was no chill jog through the jungle. It was a vertical monster.

But we came prepared. My pack was fully loaded: a Salomon 12L vest stuffed with all mandatory gear — thermals, a first aid kit + emergency blanket, buff, waterproof jacket (shoutout to my Salomon Bonatti), waterproof pants (Outdoor Research Helium), glove liners (thanks Patagonia), two torches (main + backup), poles, Kula Cloth, a dry bag with battery pack and Garmin inReach Mini (because I always bring insurance I hope never to use), and four soft flasks for hydration (2L total capacity).

We climbed through dusty trails and volcanic rock, the kind that slips out from under your feet just when you think you’ve found rhythm. The terrain was rough and exposed, winding through grasslands, steep scree, and loose gravel that tested your footing with every step. This mountain doesn’t hand out views easily — you earn them with sweat and patience.

Welcome to Rinjani

Mount Rinjani is Indonesia's second-highest volcano and part of the famous "Ring of Fire." It's an active stratovolcano with a massive caldera that cradles Segara Anak, a turquoise crater lake that feels almost too mystical to be real. The summit route, particularly from Sembalun, is a brutal yet popular trail that pushes both mental and physical limits. Despite the mountain's beauty, it demands respect.

There are several trekking options up Rinjani, with 2D1N and 3D2N hiking packages heavily advertised in Lombok and online. These typically follow the Sembalun route to the rim and/or summit and descend via Senaru. While these tours may be marketed for general tourism, it's crucial to note that Rinjani is not a beginner's hike. The altitude, changing weather, and steep terrain require preparation, gear, and stamina.

Before embarking on any Rinjani hike or trail run:

Train for elevation and endurance
Check the weather forecast
Bring adequate layers and waterproof gear
Pack headlamps and navigation tools
Book with reputable local operators who include guides, porters, and proper safety briefings

Summit Sunrise

It was around 6:30am when I reached the summit. The golden glow spilled over the crater lake, clouds danced below us, and the wind howled its own kind of applause. It was freezing, surreal, and perfect. There’s nothing quite like watching the sunrise from above the clouds, with sweat on your back and grit in your teeth.

Was it easy? Not a chance. Was it worth every gasping breath? Absolutely.

Fuel and Flow

One of the most surprising things about this race? The aid stations. Seriously, hats off to the organisers. From fruit and warm soup to boiled potatoes and steaming kopi, the Indonesian hospitality was unmatched. I sipped hot coffee at 2,000+ metres with dirty fingernails and a full heart.

Descending was its own kind of brutal—quads screaming, knees rattling, but spirits high. Locals cheered from the trailside, and fellow runners shared quiet nods of camaraderie. I finished back in Sembalun just under the 12-hour mark, muddy, exhausted, and buzzing with joy.

A Note on Nature

Rinjani is sacred. Its trails are fragile. If you ever find yourself here, racing or hiking, please—don’t litter. Pack it in, pack it out. I saw way too many energy gel wrappers and plastic bottles tossed on the trail. That summit magic? It loses a bit of shine when there’s trash at your feet.

Let’s do better. Adventure doesn’t have to leave a trace.

Final Thoughts

The Rinjani100 wasn’t just a race. It was a reminder that beauty and brutality often share the same path. That the sun rises every day, but some sunrises change you. And that running up a volcano in the middle of the night might be exactly the therapy your wild heart needs.

Planning your own volcano run or trek? Start slow, pack smart, train for vertical, and always carry your respect for the land and the people. Rinjani will test you—but it will also reward you tenfold.

See you on the trails.

Racing the Volcano: Summiting Gunung Rinjani in One Push